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Northstar Air conditioning Help

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2.7K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  junkyardwarrior  
#1 ·
Is there any trick to getting consistently cooler air out of the Northstar Air Conditioning? I have a 2025 crew and it will cool sometimes and other times it is barely cool at all.

I have read where some individual machines have very cold air conditioning and others are just mediocre. I do not understand why if all of the Northstar editions have the same compressor.

I have had the freon level checked, the windows are ceramic tinted, and all of the ducts have been checked for kinks.
 
#2 ·
Driving style will affect the AC. Under certain circumstances the ECU will turn off the compressor. This happens when using heavy throttle or if battery voltage is lower due to heavy electrical loads. I don't remember everything but the service manual details it.
 
#4 ·
The AC belt looks brand new. The unit will blow cold air (44 degrees) and then the air blows 10-15 degrees hotter at least. If you turn off the AC switch and turn it back on the air cools down again.

Did Polaris change the AC setup for the 2025? I thought I read where it was supposed to be an upgraded AC system for 2025 models.
 
#5 ·
Grok help. I have no idea how it came up with all of the help, but it seems reasonable.


First, check the cabin air filter. The NorthStar’s HVAC system has a filter that can clog with dust, dirt, or debris, especially if you’re operating in dusty environments like trails or work sites. A clogged filter restricts airflow, making the air feel less cool even if the system is working. Locate the filter (typically behind the glovebox or under the dash—check your owner’s manual for specifics) and inspect it. If it’s dirty, clean it if it’s reusable, or replace it if it’s disposable. Regularly cleaning or replacing the filter every few months, or more often in harsh conditions, can make a big difference.

Next, ensure the condenser is clean. The condenser is the component outside the cab (usually near the front of the vehicle) that dissipates heat. Mud, bugs, or debris can coat it, reducing its efficiency and causing the system to struggle, especially at low speeds when airflow is minimal. Hose it down gently with water to clear any buildup, but avoid high-pressure sprays that could damage the fins. If you’re in a dusty area, check this frequently.

Low refrigerant levels are a common culprit for inconsistent cooling. The NorthStar’s AC uses a sealed system, but leaks can develop over time, especially at hose connections or the compressor. If the refrigerant is low, the system may cool intermittently or blow barely cool air. Since checking and refilling refrigerant requires specialized equipment and expertise, you’ll need a certified technician to inspect the system for leaks, evacuate it, and recharge it to the correct level. Don’t attempt this yourself, as mishandling refrigerant can damage the system or violate regulations.
The compressor clutch is another potential issue. The NorthStar’s compressor is belt-driven and engages via a clutch. If the clutch is slipping, not engaging properly, or cycling on and off too quickly, it can lead to inconsistent cooling. Listen for unusual noises like chirping or squealing when the AC is on, especially at low speeds or idle, as these can indicate belt or clutch problems. If you suspect this, a mechanic can test the clutch circuit and belt tension. Some owners have reported a “chirping” sound when slowing down with the AC on, which might point to a belt issue.

Airflow dynamics in the cab can also affect perceived cooling. The Crew model has a larger cab, which takes longer to cool than a two-seater. If doors or windows are opened frequently, hot air rushes in, making the system work harder. Try keeping the cab sealed as much as possible when the AC is running. Tinted windows or adding aftermarket tint can reduce heat gain from sunlight, helping the system maintain cooler air. If you’re idling or moving slowly (like during trail rides), the AC may struggle because the condenser relies on vehicle movement for airflow. Some owners have suggested adding a manual fan switch to boost condenser airflow at low speeds, but this is a custom modification that requires technical know-how.

Temperature control settings matter too. The NorthStar’s HVAC control panel lets you adjust fan speed and temperature. Make sure the system is set to full cold and the fan is on high when you’re trying to cool the cab quickly. If you’re mixing hot air (from the heater setting), it can make the output feel lukewarm. Double-check that the temperature dial is fully counterclockwise for maximum cooling.

Environmental factors can play a role. On extremely hot days (say, over 100°F), the system may not blow ice-cold air because it’s fighting a high heat load. The NorthStar’s AC is designed for utility vehicles, not cars, so it might not hit the same low temperatures as a truck or SUV. Owners often note it’s “decent” but not freezing, especially in the Crew cab’s larger space. Parking in shade when possible can reduce the cab’s starting temperature, giving the AC a head start.
If none of these help, there could be an electrical or sensor issue. The NorthStar’s AC has diagnostic indicators (like a red EDT light) that can signal problems, such as a clutch circuit fault. If you notice a blinking light or odd behavior, note any patterns (e.g., double blinking) and consult a technician, as this could point to wiring issues or a faulty sensor. Dealerships or specialized AC shops can run diagnostics to pinpoint the problem.

For preventative maintenance, keep the cab sealed from dust, clean the condenser and filter regularly, and have the refrigerant checked annually by a pro. If the issue persists after trying these steps, it’s likely time to take it to a Polaris dealer or a shop experienced with UTV HVAC systems. They can test for leaks, verify compressor function, and check for less common issues like a faulty expansion valve or evaporator problems.
 
#6 ·
the evaporator has a temp switch probe on it. When the evap temp drops below I think 38 degrees it cuts the compressor off so that the evap doesn't freeze over. If it freezes, there is a chance that liquid refrigerant can be sent back to the compressor which can (and usually does) grenade the compressor.

if the evap temp is "that" low, it's possible that the system is undercharged. Possibly a leak, possibly someone working on it that didn't know exactly what they were doing, etc.

And if your vent temps are 44 deg, I will go out on a limb and say that the evap temp switch is cutting the compressor off which would be considered normal operation. The compressor will cut back in when evap temp increases to around 55 deg, IIRC.