Well I am curious too. Anyone?

 

I don't have it on my 16/900 but it affects the throttle control through the ECM giving it more or less reaction to your right foot. It should help some but with a little practice and knowing how the cvt works your right foot can be trained for a smother engagement anyway.

 

I've only had my Ranger for a couple weeks, I have about 8 hours on it. The 3 mode switch is pretty cool... I use the "work" mode when loading it and when parking it in my garage, it makes the rig not jumpy when trying to slowly ease into the throttle. The "Standard" mode is what i use when driving it around on the streets or just commuting on the dirt roads. "Performance" mode is truly that, you really can tell when you hit the gas, it gives you almost immediate full power no matter how hard you're into the throttle. I use the performance mode when on the trails following my buddies in their RZR's or on the faster trails. Hope this helps, again I don't have a ton of time in a Ranger yet, I'm coming from a RZR XP 900 4. I'll check back if you have any questions I'll do my best, again it is a noticeable difference when switching between the modes.

 

I leave mine on performance mode, in my opinion it will wear your clutch and belt out faster.

Same thing as easing on the gas when starting.

 

Guess I could have been clearer but there was a comma between the two thoughts

 

The switch controls throttle response between your right foot and the engine, has nothing to do with the clutch but by controlling what your right foot is doing on the throttle does affect the clutch in how it engages the belt, once you get to around 1800-2000rpm's and the belt engages the only thing that affects wear is load.

 

If you have ever worked or sprayed a lot with a 900 its very difficult to hold a steady throttle speed in bumpy conditions, sounds like to me this work mode setting could be the ticket.

 

I believe the work mode, is going to contribute to premature clutch/belt wear and failures.

 

based on their horrible 6 month warranty where they will fight every repair after you spent 20k...they obviously dgaf

 

I've only had mine a week but the mode switch also seems to limit top end speed. In work mode it's about done at 45. Standard will get you to 62 mph. Performance will get you to the same 62 mph but a helluva lot quicker.

 

That is correct, not only limits how far it will open the throttle but also the rate at which it opens

 

I was told by dealer that work mode prevented burning up the belt when hauling or working with heavy loads.

 

He is wrong, he simply does not know what the switch does or how it operates

 

By "dealer" do you mean "salesman".

 

Not sure about wearing out the clutch, I have had mine since Sept 16th, have put about 800 miles and 70hrs on in. Seems to me to work like a programmer on a diesel engine, kind of like shift on the fly, swaps something in the ECU and either locks or unlocks the power. Clutch engages much smoother when in work mode, and a 570 will run off and leave it in work mode so I know it's limiting powe. It's pretty cool though cause if you're running all you have to do is switch the mode you want let off the throttle and get back on it and it swaps. I like it, because when my son is driving he has better control taking off. I normally run in performance myself, just because after you feel the power in it, the other two modes make it feel week.

 

IH, I don't have much of a problem holding speed, although tile ditches do pose a bit of a problem, but all my different spray configurations are set for 10mph.

All this switch is doing is altering the signal from the pedal to the motor, in work mode you'll have to push the pedal more, same thing in normal mode but a quicker response and in performance it's instance response, nothing to do with the clutches or the motor it's all done in the ECM. For those who have been around a cvt clutch I do see it being a bit of a problem because the work mode will feel like your slipping the belt, for those who are new to this....well you all should learn what slippage is because you can control it with your right foot.

 

Agreed

Let me explain the connection to the clutch and this switch

Lets say you had a model without the switch and you was really good with your right foot always being easy on it and never bouncing on it and never jerking the vehicle then you would have no use for it. But also you would be easing on the gas to get going, your primary clutch has to close up on the belt to get moving, always some degree of slippage every time you start but easing on the gas makes it slip longer before it grabs and you start moving or longer it slips while you are just getting started. So since the primary clutch would be turning and the belt would not, barely engaging has the clutch spinning on the belt, rubbing it, slipping it and wearing it out. Also, the belt barely in contact with the clutch causes the clutch to wear away faster too down low.

I see clutches all the time where the person is a slow rider, slow engager and the bottom of the clutch has significant wear on it from all the extra slipping at take off from easing on the gas.

So enter in this mode switch, it electronically does what the example above does. In work mode, you can gas on it but it still electronically eases the gas, slowly engaging the belt. So in first example you are manually slowly engaging it and with the new model with switch and work mode, even if you do floor it it eases on the gas for you.

Now I am not gonna sit here and tell you that you are going to wear out your clutch in a month by using work mode, this is just a discussing of the mode switch and since I sell clutch parts and understand them well, I wanted to pass on what this new switch is also affecting.

I would only use these modes if you need them to stop jerky operation from the throttle being bounced on. As mentioned earlier, I leave mine in performance mode, I personally have no use for the switch as I don't do any rough terrain. This time of year, I use my ranger in a flooded rice field to go duck hunting, put it in low and go.

Todd

 

yeah would be the same as without the mode switch no belt slippage but if we are gonna split hairs then the clutch paks would not engage as fast either in the work mode so they would see excessive wear over time.

The main thing is no matter what switch mode or clutch the extra wear is when you are just starting to move, so go

 

Looks like there just trying to re-invent the wheel so to speak! from what i can see the new "switch" is just a partial ecm attempt to do just what my duraclutch does.... kinda reminds me of ABS for the throttle (the ecm is saying let me handle this)..LOL

 

Not really, more than anything the switch just controls how sensitive the throttle is to help stop jerking but not the clutch jerking. When they went to fly by wire instead of a throttle cable then power delivery is rather intense

 

Todd. When will the duraclutch for the 1000 Xp be available? We spoke by phone just after the start of the year.

Bob

 

Wish I knew, supposed to be this month but don't hold your breath.

I been waiting to sell my 16 XP 1000 RZR after I test it and video the install. Hanging me up for sure!!!

 

My three mode switch does not light up, pedal to the metal and it appears to be working, just not lit. Moved its location in dash and wondered if one of the connectors got pushed back up into the connector block, but that was not the case. All fuses and relays are functional. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Three mode switch doesn't have a light.

 

I don't remember mine ever lighting up

 

Adding some info I came across on this topic.

1. There are actually 4 drive modes built into the system, but only 3 are used.

2. The 3 way Drive mode switch ( itself) has internal resistors, which allow the ECU to monitor voltage drop, which indicates the selected mode.
Performance mode, resistor in the switch for this mode is 4 K ohms.
Standard mode, resistor in the switch for this mode is 25 K ohms.
Work mode, resistor in the switch for this mode is 1.5 K ohms.

 

Old thread, but I am curious to know what the 4th, non-used drive mode is, and at what resistance is it activated?
Johan Sundstrom

 

Yes, it is coded into the ECU. Strange thing is, it’s #3 that is open, #1,#2, and #4 are dedicated.

 

I like the work mode for plowing. Much easier to control.

 

So correct me if I'm wrong & appreciate everyone's comments that have been made, I do primarily 3 things with my machine
1) Winter - Plow & Snow Blow snow 2) Fall - Haul firewood 3) Light weight trail riding mostly flat grounds.
Is the correct mode for both my winter & Fall activities where I have some heavy pushing or hauling that I should be in WORK mode ?
Is it correct then that for most all other activies I should be in PERFORMANCE mode
Much appreciated

 

It basically controls how fast the throttle opens when you floor it and how much the throttle plate opens. The general idea they had about jerky was if you was on rough terrain and your motto was bouncing on the throttle it would not jerk you around when using the work mode

 

On an 18 wheeler it's called throttle droop which is good in theory, terrible in some real world situations. It's just a preset speed for how fast the throttle can change. No matter how fast you mash the throttle, the ecm is only going to increase it based on the preset speed and normally only allow X amount of overall voltage (less than max throttle).

 

I think that it may also retard the timing in work and standard modes. I am only guessing because the gas mileage is much better in performance mode. Probably fuel timing and spark. I used work mode during break in and I went thru a lot more gas.